1. Field of the Invention
The present invention relates to a composition, in particular one for making up the eyes, comprising oxyalkylenated silicone derivatives. These compositions have improved cosmetic properties, in particular of staying power.
2. Description of the Background
Many mascara formulations exist on the market. However, the consumer still expects an improvement in the properties of these mascaras, namely the lengthening of the eyelash, better adhesion of the composition to the eyelash, better shaping, also referred to as weighting, of the eyelashes, better staying power of the make-up over time and better resistance to mechanical stresses. For example, some users wish to be able to keep the same make-up on for the day and the evening. It is also known that rubbing the fingers on the eyelids and the contact of spectacles with the eyelashes tend to crumble the mascara away. In particular, the presence of pigments and/or fillers in compositions for making up the eyelashes makes these compositions particularly subject to crumbling. The compositions known to date have not solved these problems satisfactorily.
The object of the present invention is to provide a composition, in particular one for making up the eyes, which dries rapidly and has improved properties of lengthening and weighting of the eyelashes, of staying power and of mechanical strength.
The object of the invention is met by a cosmetic composition, in particular one for making up the eyelashes, comprising:
(a) at least one aqueous phase comprising at least one film-forming polymer,
(b) at least one fatty phase comprising at least one wax, and
(c) at least one silicone selected from the group consisting of:
(i) oxyalkylenated silicones, and
(ii) linear polysiloxane-polyoxyalkylene block copolymers
The object of the invention is also met by the use of a composition as defined above for the production of a make-up having better staying power over time and/or improved weighting and/or better resistance to crumbling and/or better lengthening of the eyelashes and/or an improved rate of drying.
The object of the invention is also met by the use of a silicone selected from the group consisting of:
(i) oxyalkylenated silicones, and
(ii) linear polysiloxane-polyoxyalkylene block copolymers,
in a cosmetic composition, in particular one for making up the eyes, comprising:
(a) at least one aqueous phase comprising al least one film-forming polymer, and
(b) at least one fatty phase comprising at least one wax, to impart to this composition better staying power over time and/or improved weighting and/or better resistance to crumbling and/or better lengthening of the eyelashes and/or an improved rate of drying.
These compositions are preferably in the form of an emulsion of the fatty phase in the aqueous phase or a dispersion of the aqueous phase in the fatty phase.
Hitherto, dimethicone copolyols were known in various applications: as an emulsifying agent in compositions of the water-in-oil type, or alternatively as a plasticizer in hairstyling products. For example, EP-A-705,595, describes hairstyling compositions comprising a plasticizer, which may be a dimethicone copolyol or a polycarboxylic acid, in order to improve the flexibility of fixing resins.
However, the compositions described in EP-A-705,595, are very different in terms of their structure from compositions for making up the eyes. In particular, these compositions contain neither pigments nor fillers, nor do they contain large amounts of waxes. On reading that document, nothing would lead a person skilled in the art to think that the properties of lengthening of the eyelash, of adhesion to the eyelash, of weighting of the eyelashes, of staying power of the make-up and of resistance of the mascaras to mechanical stresses could he improved in a spectacular manner by the use of dimethicone copolyols.
The compositions according to the invention also advantageously contain at least one pigment, which may be selected from inorganic, organic and optionally pearlescent pigments. These pigments are preferably included in a proportion ranging from 0.25 to 25%, preferably from 1 to 20%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, depending on the coloration and intensity of the coloration which it is desired to obtain. Among the pigments which can be used include the oxides of zinc, of iron or of chromium, ferric blue, carbon black and the lakes commonly employed which ate salts of acidic dyes.
The composition according to the invention thus comprises a silicone which may be an oxyalkylenated silicone.
Preferably, the oxyalkylenated silicones do not have C8-C22 alkoxy or alkyl radical linked directly to a silicon atom.
The oxyalkylenated silicones are selected from compounds of general formula (I), also referred to as dimethicone copolyols: 
in which formula:
R1 and R4, which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched C1-C30 alkyl radical or a phenyl radical,
R2, which are identical or different, represent xe2x80x94(CxH2x)xe2x80x94(OC2H4)axe2x80x94(OC3H6)bxe2x80x94OR3,
R3, which are identical or differed, are chosen from a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched alkyl radical having from 1 to 12 carbon atoms, or a linear or branched aryl radical having from 2 to 12 carbon atoms,
o ranges from 0 to 1000,
p ranges from 1 to 30,
a ranges from 0 to 50,
b ranges from 0 to 50,
a+b is greater than or equal to 1,
x ranges from 1 to 5,
the number-average molecular weight being greater than or equal to 15,000 and preferably between 25,000 and 75,000.
Preferably, R4 is not hydrophobic, and preferably not a C8-C22 alkyl radical.
Preferably, oxyalkylenated silicones of general formula (I) are used which satisfy at least one, and preferably all, of the following conditions:
R1 and R4 denote a methyl radical,
R3 represents a hydrogen atom, a methyl radical or an acetyl radical, and preferably hydrogen,
p ranges from 8 to 20,
a is between 5 and 40 and preferably between 15 and 30,
b is between 5 and 40 and preferably between 15 and 30,
x is equal to 2 or 3,
n ranges from 20 to 600, preferably from 50 to 500 and even more preferably from 100 to 300.
Such silicones are described, for example, in U.S. Pat. No. 4,311,695, which is hereby incorporated by reference.
Dimethicone copolyols have been presented in particular by the company Dow Corning during the 17th International Congress of the I.F.S.C.C, of October 1992 and have been reported in the article xe2x80x9cWater-soluble dimethicone copolyol waxes for personal care industryxe2x80x9d by Linda Madore et al., pages 1 to 3.
These dimethicone copolyols me water-soluble polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) containing one or more ether functions (oxyalkylene, in particular oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene).
Such dimethicone copolyols are sold in particular by the company Goldschmidt under the name Abil B8851 or Abil B88183. Mention may also be made of compounds KF 351 to 354 and RF 615 A sold by the company Shin Etsu or DMC 6038 from the company Wacker.
The dimethicone copolyol derivatives which can be used in the invention are, in particular, dimethicone copolyols containing a phosphate, sulphate, propyldimethylammonium myristamide chloride, stearate, amine, glycomodified, etc, group. The compounds sold by the company Siltech under the name Silphos A100, Siltech amine 65, Silwax WDIS, myristamide silicone quat, or by the company Phoenix under the name Pecosil PS 100 may be used in particular as dimethicone copolyol derivatives.
It is also possible to use the derivatives sold by the company Wacker under the name VP 1661, or by the company Dow Corning under the name 2501 cosmetic wax.
The silicones most particularly preferred are, for example, those sold by the company Dow Corning under the trade name Q2-5220 and by the company Rhone-Poulenc under the name Mirasil DMCO.
When, in the context of the present invention, linear polysiloxane-polyoxyalkylene block copolymers me used, these preferably have the general formula (II) below:
({Y(R2SiO)a.Rxe2x80x22SiYO}{(Cn.H2n.O)b.})c.xe2x80x83xe2x80x83(II)
in which:
R and Rxe2x80x2, which are identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon radical containing no aliphatic unsaturation,
nxe2x80x2 is an integer between 2 and 4,
axe2x80x2 is an integer greater than or equal to 5,
bxe2x80x2 is an integer greater than or equal to 4,
cxe2x80x2 is an integer greater than or equal to 4,
Y represents a divalent organic group which is attached to the adjacent silicon atom by a carbon silicon bond and to a polyoxyalkylene block by an oxygen atom,
the number average molecular weight of each siloxane block is between about 400 and about 10,000, and that of each polyoxyalkylene block being between about 300 and about 10,000,
the siloxane blocks represent from about 10% to about 90% by weight of the block copolymer,
the number average molecular weight of the block copolymer being at least 3000.
The radicals R and Rxe2x80x2 are more preferably selected from the group consisting of alkyl radicals such as, for example, methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, pentyl, hexyl, octyl, decyl and dodecyl radicals; aryl radicals such as, for example, phenyl and naphthyl radicals; aralkyl radicals such as, for example. benzyl and phenylethyl; tolyl, xylyl and cyclohexyl radicals.
The divalent radical Y is preferably xe2x80x94Rxe2x80x3xe2x80x94, xe2x80x94Rxe2x80x3xe2x80x94COxe2x80x94, xe2x80x94Rxe2x80x3xe2x80x94NHCOxe2x80x94. xe2x80x94Rxe2x80x3xe2x80x94NHxe2x80x94COxe2x80x94NHxe2x80x94Rxe2x80x2xe2x80x3xe2x80x94NHCO or xe2x80x94Rxe2x80x3xe2x80x94OCONHxe2x80x94Rxe2x80x2xe2x80x3xe2x80x94NHCOxe2x80x94, where Rxe2x80x3 is a divalent alkylene group such as, for example, ethylene, propylene or butylene and Rxe2x80x2xe2x80x3 is a divalent alkylene group or a divalent arylene group such as xe2x80x94C6H4xe2x80x94, xe2x80x94C6H4xe2x80x94C6H4xe2x80x94, C6H4xe2x80x94CH2xe2x80x94C6H4xe2x80x94or xe2x80x94C6H4xe2x80x94CH(CH3)2xe2x80x94C6H4xe2x80x94.
Even more preferably, Y represents a divalent alkylene radical and more particularly the xe2x80x94CH2xe2x80x94CH2xe2x80x94CH2radical.
The preparation of the block copolymers used in the context of the present invention is described in particular in European application EP 0,492657 A1.
According to a specific embodiment of the invention, the block copolymer is selected from the following copolymers:
{{(CH3)2SiO}41(CH3)2SiCH2CH(CH3)CH2xe2x80x94O(C2H4O)18xe2x80x94(C3H6O)33CH2CH(CH3)CH2}16.1 
{{(CH3)2SiO}31(CH3)2SiCH2CH(CH3)CH2xe2x80x94O(C2H4O)20xe2x80x94(C3H6O)29CH2CH(CH3)CH2}13.3 
{{(CH3)2SiO}9(CH3)2SiCH2CH(CH3)CH2xe2x80x94O(C2H4O)20xe2x80x94(C3H6O)29CH2CH(CH3)CH2}26.3 
{{(CH3)2SiO}16(CH3)2SiCH2CH(CH3)CH2xe2x80x94O(C2H4O)18xe2x80x94(C3H6O)20CH2CH(CH3)CH2}21.5 
{{(CH3)2SiO}9(CH3)2SiCH2CH(CH3)CH2xe2x80x94O(C2H4O)5xe2x80x94(CH2CH(CH3)CH2}4.8 
The silicones used in the compositions of the invention may be water-soluble or liposoluble. Depending on their water- or liposolubility, they are introduced, respectively, into the aqueous phase or the fatty phase.
The waxes which can be used in the composition according to the invention generally possess a melting point of between 40xc2x0 and 110xc2x0 C, and have a needle penetration, at 25xc2x0 C., of between 3 and 40, as measured according to US standard ASTM D 5 or according to French standard NFT 004. The principle for measuring the penetration of a needle according to the standards ASTM D 5 and AFT 004 consists in measuring the depth, expressed in tenths of a millimeter, to which a standardized needle which weighs 2.5 g penetrates when placed in a needle holder weighing 47.5 g, i.e. a total of 50 g, the needle being placed on the wax for 5 seconds.
The waxes which can be used in the present invention me selected from animal waxes, plant waxes, mineral waxes, synthetic waxes and various fractions of natural waxes, all of the waxes having the two physical characteristics mentioned above.
Included among the animal waxes are beeswaxes, lanolin waxes and Chinese insect waxes.
Among the plant waxes are rice waxes, carnauba waxes, candelilla waxes, ouricurry waxes, cork fibre waxes, sugarcane waxes. Japan waxes, sumach wax and cotton wax.
Among the mineral waxes are paraffins, microcrystalline waxes. Montan waxes and ozokerites.
Among the synthetic waxes which can be used in particular are polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis, waxy copolymers and esters thereof, and silicone waxes.
It is also possible to use hydrogenated animal or plant oils which still satisfy the two physical characteristics mentioned above.
Among these oils are hydrogenated jojoba waxes and hydrogenated oils which are obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of fatty substances composed of a linear or non-linear C8xe2x80x94C32 fatty chain, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated lanolin and hydrogenated palm oils.
The waxes which can be used according to the present invention are preferably solid and rigid at a temperature below 50xc2x0 C.
These waxes may be in the form of stable dispersions of colloid particles of wax as may be prepared according to known methods, such as xe2x80x9cMicroemulsions Theory and Practicexe2x80x9d. L. M. Prince Ed., Academic Press (1977), pages 21-32.
Advantageously, the compositions according to the invention comprise from 6 to 40% wax, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 10 to 25%.
The composition according to the invention also comprises at least one film-forming polymer, in solution, optionally in colloidal solution or colloidal dispersion.
The film-forming polymer is used in amounts which make it possible to obtain good adhesion of the composition to the eyelash, and lengthening, coating and curving which give a wide-eyed impression, the eyelashes being well separated.
The compositions according to the invention preferably comprise an amount of film-forming polymer ranging from 0.1 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The compositions which form the subject of the present invention advantageously comprise an amount ranging from 1 to 10%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, of film-forming polymer.
The film-forming polymer may be selected from:
keratin derivatives, such as keratin hydrolysates and sulphonic keratins;
anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic chitin or chitosan derivatives;
cellulose derivatives such as hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, methylcellulose, ethylhydroxyethylcellulose and carboxymethylcellulose, as well as quaternized derivatives of cellulose;
acrylic polymers or copolymers, such as polyacrylates a polymethacrylates;
polyvinylpyrrolidones and vinyl copolymers, such as copolymers of methyl vinyl ether and of malic anhydride or the copolymer of vinyl acetate and of crotonic acid;
anionic polyester and/or polyesteramide polymers capable of forming solutions, optionally colloidal solutions or colloidal dispersions, in water, these polymers comprising monomers bearing a function: xe2x80x94SO3M, with M representing a hydrogen atom, an ammonium ion NH4+or a metal ion, for example an Na+, Li+, K+, Mg2+, Ca2+, Cu2+, Fe2+ or Fe3+ ion. Preferred are the polymers described in U.S. Pat. Nos. 3,734,874; 4,233,196; and 4,304,901. Film-forming polyester polymers based on at least one dicarboxylic acid, on at least one diol and at least one difunctional aromatic monomer also bearing a group xe2x80x94SO3M as described above are advantageously selected;
polymers of natural origin, which are optionally modified, such as:
gum arabics, guar gum, xanthan derivatives, karaya gum;
alginates and carrageenates;
glycoaminoglycans, hyaluronic acid and derivatives thereof;
shellac resin, sandarac, dammar resins, elemi gums and copal resins.
The compositions according to the invention preferably comprise from 0.01 to 5% of silicone, even more preferably from 0.4 to 1.5%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The compositions according to the invention advantageously comprise from 10 to 30% by weight of silicone relative to the total weight of the film-forming polymer.
The components of the oily and aqueous phases may be independently dissolved or melted at a temperature of 85xc2x0 C. and then mixed together.
The composition according to the present invention may be in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion or a water-in-wax dispersion.
When it is used in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, the composition may contain emulsifying surfactants present in a proportion of between 2 and 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. These surfactants may be selected from anionic or nonionic surfactants. Reference may be made to xe2x80x9cEncyclopedia of Chemical Technology. Kirk-Othmerxe2x80x9d volume 22, p.333-432, 3rd edition, 1979. Wiley, for the definition of the properties and (emulsifying) functions of the surfactants, in particular p347-377 of this reference, for the anionic and nonionic surfactants.
The surfactants preferably used in the compositions according to the invention are:
among the nonionic surfactants: fatty acids, fatty alcohols. polyethoxylated or polyglycerolated fatty alcohols such as polyethoxylated stearyl or cetyl stearyl alcohols, fatty acid esters of sucrose, alkyl glucose esters, in particular polyoxyethylenated fatty esters of C1xe2x80x94C6-alkyl glucose.
among the anionic surfactants: amine stearates.
When the composition according to the invention is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, the water advantageously represents from 30 to 80% by weight of the total weight of the composition.
When the composition according to the invention is in the form of a water-in-wax dispersion, it also preferably comprises at least one thickener and at least one volatile solvent or organic oil which will evaporate on contact with the skin or the eyelashes, but whose presence in the cosmetic composition is useful since they facilitate the spreading of the composition when it is applied to the skin or the eyelashes. Such spreading agents, referred to here as volatile solvents or oils, are generally organic compounds having a saturating vapour pressure at 25xc2x0 C., at least equal to 0.5 millibar (i.e. 0.5xc3x97102 Pa).
The thickener may be selected from organically modified clays, such as monimorillonites and hectorite derivatives, for example bentonite.
The concentration of volatile solvent or organic oil is between 35 and 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The volatile solvent or organic oil may be selected from isoparaffin, turpentine oil, isopropyl alcohol, ethyl alcohol, white spirit, silicone oils such as hexamethyldisiloxane, cyclopentadimethylsiloxane and cyclotetramethylsiloxane, fluoro oils such as those marketed under the name Galden (Montefluos) or isoparaffin oils such as those which are marketed under the name Isopar (E, G, L or H) and isododecane.
In this embodiment of the invention, the aqueous phase preferably represents from 0.1 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Reference may be made to WO 91/12793 for the preparation of compositions in the form of a water-in-wax dispersion, these dispersions also having the property of being water-resistant.
The composition according to the invention may also contain ingredients commonly used in cosmetics, such as vitamins, trace elements, softeners, sequestering agents, fragrances, oils, silicones, cohesion agents and basifying or acidifying agents usually used in the cosmetics field, fillers, emollients, usually used in amounts of between 1 and 10%, preserving agents such as, for example, imidazolinyl urea, methylparaben and propylparaben, and fluoro compounds. The composition may also comprise at least one filler such as:
talc, which is a hydrated magnesium silicate used in the form of particles generally less than 40 microns.
micas, which are aluminosilicates or varied compositions in the form of flakes from 2 to 200 microns in size, preferably from 5 to 70 microns in size, and from 0.1 to 5 microns thick, preferably from 0.2 to 3 microns thick it being possible for these micas to be of natural origin, such as muscovite, margarite, roscoelite, lipidolite or biotite, or of synthetic origin.
starch, in particular rice starch,
kaolin, which is a hydrated aluminum silicate in the form of particles of isotropic form generally less than 30 microns in size,
zinc and titanium oxides generally used in the form of particles not exceeding a few microns in size,
calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate or magnesium hydrocarbonate,
microcrystalline cellulose,
silica,
powders of synthetic polymers such as polyethylene, polyesters (polyethylene isophthalate or terephthalate), polyamides such as those sold under the trade name xe2x80x9cNylonxe2x80x9d or xe2x80x9cTeflonxe2x80x9d and silicone powders.
The compositions according to the invention may in particular be in the form of a mascara or an eye-liner, or may constitute a base for the preparation of mascaras or eyeliners.
Having generally described this invention, a further understanding can be obtained by reference to certain specific examples which are provided herein for purposes of illustration only and are not intended to be limiting unless otherwise specified.